Hut Hiking in Austria
I have not posted for a long time due to lack of computer access for the last couple weeks, but I am now back in Zurich and will post about my recent travels in two or three installments.
On June 21st (feels like a really long time ago), Greg, Seth and I took the bus from Innsbruck to Mutters and hiked up to Nochspize. The hike took about two and a half hours each way and had an elevation gain of between 700 and 800 HM (height meters). The last segment of the hike was labeled as "for experienced hikers only" and it definitely earned its rating. The trail was steep and gravelly and even included a couple small (5 meters long) snow fields that were yet to melt. At the summit there was a beautiful view of the city of Innsbruck. After traveling back to Innsbruck, we went out for a nice dinner where I had some very good Wiener Schnitzel with lingonberry jelly.
The three of us commenced our hut hiking adventure in the Karwendel Mountains on June 22nd. Short on time in the morning, I undertook a frantic grocery store run (for trail food) in the grocery store train station while Seth and Greg bought our train tickets. After piling as much trail mix, nuts, and candy as I could in my arms, I headed to check out and we boarded our train. We took a train from Innsbruck to Scharnitz to begin the day. The day was hot and the hike was a long slog up an exposed, gently uphill bike path. The path was never too steep but it took a long time to gain much elevation. We went up about 800 HM during the 6-hour hike. We finally arrived at the Karwendelhaus. The huts we stayed at provide a place to sleep (in one big room with about 30 beds), dinner, and breakfast. They are not luxurious but are much more comfortable and easier logistically than carrying a tent while backpacking. It was great to have a light pack during our long days of hiking. After relaxing for an hour or so, we decided to hike 400 HM up a peak next to our hut called Hochalmkreuz. This hike was full of steep switchbacks and took a little less than an hour to climb. For dinner, I had delicious Rhindsgoulash, Hungarian beef goulash with egg noodles. This type of meal is especially great after a long hike. We shared a buckwheat cake called Buchweizen Kuchen for dessert.
On June 23rd, we set off at 8:15 on our long hike, bound for Lamsanjochhutte. The forecast was for an unpleasant amount of rain in the afternoon so we decided to beat it. Our hike was scheduled to take 7.5 hours and included 1164 HM up and 985 HM down. We reached the first checkpoint, Falkenhutte, much more quickly than the posted time. We continued downhill to Engalm where we enjoyed a long break and a mozzarella, tomato, and pesto platter for a snack. The last leg of the hike was the most difficult--700 HM up. We finally reached Lamsanjochhutte at 14:42, posting a time of just under 6.5 hours. The rain/hail/thunder storm began at 15:00 and was at full power by 15:30, so we made it just in time. For dinner I had Brotsuppe (bread soup), spaghetti Bolognese, and Schwarzwalder Kirschtorte (Black forest cherry cake).
It rained all morning on June 24th, so we flew down the mountain in 2.5 hours to get out of the cold. We went down 1400 HM. At the bottom of the mountain, we found ourselves walking down a trail through a really cool valley called Wolfsklamm Gorge. There were lots of awesome waterfalls and great rocks in the skinny canyon (pictures coming soon). We reached the train station in Stans, ten minutes late for the once-an-hour train back to Innsbruck. Fortunately, the train was ten minutes late, so just as we were setting our packs down to have a snack, we saw the train coming toward the platform. I hurriedly stuffed some money in the ticket machine and we hopped on the train with mere seconds to spare. Impeccable timing. We had kebabs at the Innsbruck train station upon our return and they were great. Homemade bread was stuffed with the usual kebab ingredients (doner meat, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, sauce)--and they were only 3,80 Euro each. That night, we watched the second half of the Italy v. Uruguay game at the public viewing in Innsbruck. We were there to witness Luis Suarez biting an Italian defender; luckily the Italian crowd laughed off the incident. This loss for Italy eliminated them from the World Cup, so unfortunately I will not get to watch the Italian team play while traveling in Italy later during our trip.
Another post and some pictures coming soon.
It rained all morning on June 24th, so we flew down the mountain in 2.5 hours to get out of the cold. We went down 1400 HM. At the bottom of the mountain, we found ourselves walking down a trail through a really cool valley called Wolfsklamm Gorge. There were lots of awesome waterfalls and great rocks in the skinny canyon (pictures coming soon). We reached the train station in Stans, ten minutes late for the once-an-hour train back to Innsbruck. Fortunately, the train was ten minutes late, so just as we were setting our packs down to have a snack, we saw the train coming toward the platform. I hurriedly stuffed some money in the ticket machine and we hopped on the train with mere seconds to spare. Impeccable timing. We had kebabs at the Innsbruck train station upon our return and they were great. Homemade bread was stuffed with the usual kebab ingredients (doner meat, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, sauce)--and they were only 3,80 Euro each. That night, we watched the second half of the Italy v. Uruguay game at the public viewing in Innsbruck. We were there to witness Luis Suarez biting an Italian defender; luckily the Italian crowd laughed off the incident. This loss for Italy eliminated them from the World Cup, so unfortunately I will not get to watch the Italian team play while traveling in Italy later during our trip.
Another post and some pictures coming soon.
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